The Makeup Examiner caught up with Clairol’s new Color Director, James Corbett on Oct. 23 for an exclusive TME interview. Training with the best colorists in the business, including Frederick Fekkai and Louis Licari, James has been perfecting his coloring craft for almost 20 years. With an understanding that the correct color can uplift a woman’s spirit, James shared his tips, tricks and techniques to make at-home hair color amazing and easily achievable … including tips for frustratingly color-resistant grey hair!
The Makeup Examiner: Can you share a bit about your background?
James Corbett: With almost twenty years in the [business], I’ve had the amazing opportunity to learn, observe and work with the most recognized names in the industry. Through these experiences, and constant honing of my craft, I decided to break out on my own and open James Corbett Studio in 2007 to create my own unique identity in the world of color.
My new role as Clairol Color Director gives me the opportunity to reach more women interested in color and I’m excited to partner with Clairol in my mission to make beauty attainable for all women.
It is also very important for me to give back so in 2011, I started Hair2Help, a nonprofit that provides beauty and wellness services to cancer patients and their caregivers.
What do you see as on-trend for Fall/Winter?
This season, I’m seeing a lot of blondes rocking dimension and depth. In the salon, women have requested to see their highlights pop with more texture. They are also becoming more comfortable with a darker base or adding lowlights.
As a general seasonal color transition, what do you recommend? (Blondes, Brunettes, Reds)
For the fall, embrace warm tones, even reds! Try something a little bit darker, you can experiment with Natural Instincts and go 2-3 shades darker. It lasts for roughly 28 shampoos, so you can switch up your shade. Bonus: In the spring and summer, your skin tends to be a little darker from constant exposure to the sun. I recommend lightening up a shade or two using Clairol Nice ‘n Easy.
Is it truly possible to achieve this season’s looks at home?
Absolutely! Natural Instincts in Cinnaberry can add the perfect touch of paprika tones for brunettes, I’m seeing many celebrities try this looks this season.
What are the “must-dos” for at-home hair color to achieve salon results?
The two most important things when it comes to achieving amazing hair color results are:
1. Read the instructions first, as every hair color formula is different!
2. Choose the right shade for your skin tone! Color should complement, not compete with your skin tone. For example, women with pink undertones in their skin should avoid warm hair colors, as it will only accentuate redness. Women with olive skin and strong yellow undertones should stick with neutral tones, or even a reddish brown. Those with darker complexions, try espresso and chocolate shades. The few women who have neutral skin tones without any obvious yellow, olive or pink undertones can try almost any hair color.
What do you recommend for color resistant grey hair?
Women experiencing more than 50% gray hair can be very frustrated with coloring as their hair porosity is less balanced as hair matures. Once you’ve applied color, deep condition at least once a week. The conditioner that comes in every box of Clairol is your BFF. Also, when coloring your hair at home, be sure to take small sections when applying your color and evenly distribute the product. Neutral, golden or warm shades are great for stubborn or resistant grays.
What causes that “brassy” look?
The “brassy” look occurs when women with darker hair choose to go lighter with a shade that’s too warm or golden. Darker hair is made up of mostly yellow, orange and red tones, so in order to avoid looking brassy, it’s important to choose cool or ash shades, which have blue, violet and green tones to counter the yellow, red and orange already in the hair.
If you are going more than two shades lighter than your natural hair color, you may not be able to achieve the desired results without unwanted brassy tones at home, and most likely will need to seek out a professional colorist
What is the best way to maintain our color to avoid color fade?
Treat your hair like you would you the finest cashmere sweater – delicately! To avoid fade, moisturize! The hair’s ability to absorb and maintain moisture is called porosity. When hair porosity is balanced, your color will last longer while maintaining its shine and healthy look. I highly recommend a good deep condition at least once a week to keep your hair porosity in check. I love the conditioner that comes within every box of Clairol color.
Sometimes chemically treated hair can lack moisture, how can we keep our locks looking lustrous, especially during the colder months?
All year-round, it’s important to protect your hair color from the elements – always wear a hat in the extreme cold and in the summer, wear a swim cap if you’re in the pool regularly.
Note: A very special thank you to James Corbett for taking the time to answer questions!